Wearing History 1002: Smooth Sailing

Pattern Description

Reproduction of a 1930ies sports outfit: long trousers or shorts and a blouse with yoke and puff sleeves.

Pattern Sizing

2 Size Packets:

Packet A: Bust 30-32-34, Waist 24-26-28, Hip 33-35-37

Packet B: Bust 36-38-40, Waist 30-32-34, Hip 39-41-43

I graded the largest size from packet B up by 2 sizes

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. The method described for sewing the trousers was different from the method I use for making pants. I stuck to my original method and it worked out fine.

How is the fit of the finished garment?

Trousers: They fit very well, but I had to make them tighter again by 12 cm which is a lot! So after all, I could have saved the time for grading this pattern. The pants have a high waist and low crotch which is typical for period pants and they are very comfortable to wear. 

Blouse: even after enlarging the pattern, the blouse is a little tight, especially the armhole and the sleeve cuff. I know that this is a standard problem with vintage patterns, at least for me, as I have large upper arms. The armholes are extremely narrow and the the bodice parts are getting wider under the armholes, this looks a little strange on me, but I think the main problem is the small armhole.

Likes / Dislikes?

Like:

  • Detailed instructions.
  • The pattern is very precise, all parts are fitting together perfectly.
  • The trousers fit very well and are extremely slimming. It is a versatile pattern which will look good both with a modern and a vintage look.
  • The blouse is very nice. Sweet but not too girly (I’m past 40 – I’m done with girly stuff) The yoke and pockets are good for variations like two-tone styles or cutting pieces on the bias.

Dislike:

  • The sizing was completely off for me. I really don’t know why I ALWAYS have sizing issues with each and every pattern. I am plus size, but well proportioned, so I would have expected the two parts to have more or less the same waist diameter, but far from it. Maybe the problem is with me, I really don’t know. Pattern sizing remains one of the mysteries of the modern world …

Fabric used

Pants: a lightweight herringbone patterned cotton

Blouse: cotton with little puffy dots, acutally a scrap piece from a nightgown a made some time ago

Pattern alterations or any design changes:

I enlarged the pattern by 2 sizes

After the first fitting I had to take in the seams and darts of the trousers by 12 cm (approx 4.5″).

I made the front tucks of the trousers longer because the end was sitting right in the middle of my paunch – not very flattering.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I will sew the trousers again – more than once, I’m sure. I am goingt to add some pockets to the front and/or back, for convenience. The blouse will also get a second chance after I enlarge the sleeves. But even if I end up with “only” a good pattern for trousers it will be worth the money.

I think the pattern is suitable for beginners with some sewing experience: gathering the bodice of the blouse yoke and inserting a zipper in the trousers are the most difficult parts.

Miscellaneous:

  • Time required: Trousers approx. 2 hours, Blouse approx. 3 hours
  • Cost of fabric/notions: 5 Euro for the trouser fabric, approx. 0.20 Euro for the zipper, the rest from my stash
  • Cost of pattern:  22 $ at  Wearing History

Overall Impression:

A nicely made pattern which is well worth it’s money.

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