Hooray for Underlining!

Now here’s a new (new to me) technique I love: Underlining. 2 weeks ago I read a blogpost about underlining (sorry, can’t remember where). It was linked to this tutorial on PR and I was very keen on trying it.

You’ll notice that I am procrastinating a bit on my white shirts, as the next pattern first needs to be copied from the Burda magazine – this is the only part of sewing I hate with all my heart. If I were a millionaire, I would hire a person to copy patterns for me, honestly.

So the idea of an underlined skirt offered the perfect distraction. It’s winter and I need a warm skirt, so forget about White Shirt No. 3 and make a skirt, yay!

Contrary to my original plan to try the technique with an unloved fabric first, I was very brave and used my best wool fabric instead. No risk, no fun and what could possibly go wrong anyway?

The pattern is a 40ies 6-piece skirt, easy to make, easy to fit, so let’s go.

The fashion fabric is cut according to pattern. You see that I gave some allowance here as well, this is, because the original pattern is not in my size.

The lining pieces are cut with an additional seam allowance of 1.5 cm on all lengthwise seams.

What you see here is an innovative multicolor designer lining. In other words: I used scrap pieces 🙂 . The plaid part is in the center front, the center back is beige and the 4 side pieces are copper. I’m a thrifty girl and I am always happy if I can use up every little scrap of fabric. The wool fabric was 2.5 m and I did some puzzling and piecing and managed to cut the skirt and a complete jacket out of it (sans skirt waisband, here I used contrast which you’ll see further down). I can’t for the life of me remember why I only bought 2.5  m of this gorgeous fabric. Is wasn’t even expensive. Whatever was I thinking …

Oops, I digress. Back to business: the fashion fabric pieces and the lining pieces are sewn together and turned over individually.

Put fashion fabric piece and corresponding lining piece RST and sew together, use your presser foot as edge guidance. The lining piece is now intentionally larger than the fabric piece.

Turn over. Now the lining will wrap around the cut edge of the fashion fabric. Iron the edges.

Do the same for all skirt pieces and then continue to sew the skirt in the usual fashion. Both layers are treated as 1 fabric. The edges are bound nicely, giving the impression of a Hong Kong seam finish.

Sew in the zipper and the waistband in the usual fashion, through both fabric layers.

I made a bias band hem: I stitched on a bias band on the RS of the fashion fabric, through both layers.

Then, I turned up the fabric to the inside and fixed the bias band invisibly with slip stitches through the lining.

And heres the perfect winter skirt. I never owned a skirt which is draping so beautifully and the feeling while wearing it is really comfortable. The 2 fabric layers make the skirt really heavy and also warm. Sorry for the sour face, I am coming down with a cold and even red lipstick doesn’t help to make me feel good.

Conclusion: this technique is a little bit more time consuming than making an unlined skirt, but I absolutetly wholeheartedly recommend it for everyone. Try it, it’s really worth the effort.

A fitting lesson learned on the side: girdles REALLY make you waist slimmer. I fitted the skirt without wearing a girdle while in my weekend slouchy gear and it fit. Pimping myself for the office I of course put on proper undergarments and – no surprise really – the skirt is considerably too wide at the waist.

So on to a happy ripping session (yes, ripping something to make it smaller IS a happy feeling)! I am really curious how long it will take me to not overestimate my size. Somehow I am always scared to cut pieces in the right size, I always end up with too large garments. The most beautiful thing is that I DID loose some weight recently since I am consuming very few carbohydrates. But my self image is still fatter than the real me. Well, better than the other way round, isn’t it?


One Response to “Hooray for Underlining!”

  1. Serged Underlining « Couturette Says:

    […] is not a quite so elegant technique as the “inside out” underlining technique described here, but it’s much […]

Comments are closed.

%d bloggers like this: